I went and learn how to surf early this year..what a way of kicking start this year (insyallah)..
hope ill be scratching another 5 wish of mine this year..
I actually didnt plan to learn how to surf during my new year vacation to Bali..I planned to go diving and to try the bungy jumping but among 8 of us who went to Bali, me and another friend of mine je yg ada open water diving license and she went back early then the rest of us which is on the 1st of January..so terpaksa cancel..maybe next time perhaps..
Ended up choosing to learn how to surf...alang2..dah hari2 ulang alik Kuta baik blaja surf je..we were there for a week..blh sewel Xtau nk buat apa kn..so to kill the time, me and Miss Nadia learn how to surf..
Awesome experience..huge waves..never been afraid of the ocean before but once I look at the wave that morning in Kuta, i was a bit shaken..mau Xnye..u can even see the shadow of big fishes swimming around at the back of the wave kot..hahaha..and i assure u, even pakai contex Xperlu risau..surfing ni xgangu penglihatan like diving does..hahahaha..
I manage to stand on my 3rd wave..biasa la..first 2 tu malu2 n takot2 ble dah kene sound ngan instructor baru berani..hahaha..to me la its not that hard..serious..unless I gatal2 move to much to the front then sure tergolek..
i just learn how to move around the surf board to the left or to the right till my 7th wave, baru surf properly sampai ke pasir..actually i prefer to jump into the water earlier coz kurang energy guna nk berenang ke tgh laut balik dr surf sampai ke pasir pastu kene berenang rentas arus ke tengah laut..and its not easy i tell u..u need to dive everytime there r waves comming..die punye pancit surfing ni, kalah naik gunung ok!SERIOUSLY! so 3 kali je surf habis to the shore..lain MALAS! hahaha..
Learn how to paddle merentas arus, learn how to paddle and chase the wave and when to start swimming smua2 la..hahaha..awesome experience, siap amik another extra hour so can surf suke hati :D